Friday 28 May 2010

Kidnapped by the Japanese, bullet trains and Geisha

The Bullet trains are cool (caught 3 in total). I think maybe I expected to be zoomed across land at the speed of light with my cheek bones pulled backwards and all. In reality it’s mostly a smooth but very fast ride. The trains get up to a speed of over 300km per hr. What I like most is the efficiency of not only the bullet trains but all the trains we caught while here. They pulled off exactly on time and arrived exactly on time – not a minute earlier. The conductors bow on entering and exiting the carriages, which I also thing is really lovely (they all seem so sweet and gentle, it’s hard to imagine what 1 of them might do if someone didn’t have a ticket). And like all other public transport here, they are immaculately clean. As are the streets. We were playing a game of ‘spot the litter’ and the only thing I saw was I small piece of paper blowing along the pavement one evening in Gion... must have been a tourist.
Kidnapped A curious Japanese lady struck up a conversation with us while on the way to Osaka for a day trip. After the initial pleasantries, my conversational skills where reduced to pointing at phrases in my handy little Lonely Planet Asian phrase book. A group of her friends seated nearby decided to get in on the conversation and though I am sure there was a lot lost in translation, I really enjoyed this 30 minute chat. I even got a free tutorial in counting in Japanese! I pointed to Osaka Castle on the map as my first destination as I had already worked out a route for getting there. However, when our train pulled into Osaka station, the ladies ushered us off the train. The 5 of them then formed a kind of circle around us and ushered us along the platform and up some steps, away from where we were going. With some degree of confusion, we hesitantly followed them onto another train where they began vigorously pointing at the map. It turned out they weren’t trying to kidnap us after all, they were merely showing us a quicker way to get to the Castle. One of them was shy and didn’t want to have her picture taken with me but some of the others obliged.
Geisha The bus net work in Kyoto is far more extensive than the subway so we did a days' exploration by bus, followed by a guided tour of the Geisha district (or should I say Geiko as they are known in Kyoto). The history of this profession was enlightening and the description of what life as a Makio (trainee Geiko for 5 years) entails left most of us wondering why so many still applied. Catching sight of them on their way to their appointments was amazing. They moved quickly, graciously and looked just as awesome in person as they do in the photos I had seen. So inspired by the whole experience was I that I decided I too would like to look like a Geiko. As we were on a tight schedule and no time to fit in a professional make over, I decided to try my hand a little ‘do it yourself’ make over. The result .... more ghastly than Gekio.


Nara
We did a guided walk of the Nara National Park – gorgeous area. Wild deer roam freely in and almost tourist, bowing politely for something to eat. I saw one who had even helped itself to someone’s map and was chewing contentedly on it! Our personal tour guide was extremely informative on the history, traditional and numerous religious festivals and observations of the Japanese. She was also able to clear up a few of my other queries. All the children we saw constantly walking around during the day weren’t playing truant. Schools were doing graduation trips; one bunch of kids actually descended upon us. We took photos together ad then we assisted them with a school project by answering some questions for them - the whole aim being for them to practise their English. One of them called Yogi was particularly amusing. We must have seen him another 3 times that day and on each occasion he would high 5 us and say ‘hi, long time no see’ in what I assume was an imitation of the American accent. The other mystery clarified was that of the many face masks around. People weren’t infect trying to avoid some deadly disease, rather, protecting themselves form pollen. Many hay fever suffers in Japan wear the nose and mouth coverings too successfully combat hay fever.


Cocktails & squid
You know sometimes on holiday you find a little restaurant or eatery that has maybe 1dish you love so much you frequent the place time and time again? Well for my time in Kyoto it was a little place around the corner from our hotel. The tempura squid and Shirley Temple cocktails were soooo amazing that even after dinner at another restaurant, I’d have to make a quick stop here for my favourite duo.

Tuesday 25 May 2010

I took a bath, STARK NAKED, in front of complete strangers

Beautiful Hakone
I left the luxuries of my hotel in Tokyo; the noise, the hustle and bustle for the tranquil atmosphere of Hakone and the simplicity of a Ryokan. I’ve been blessed to visit some exceptionally beautiful destinations in my time and Hakone is right up there with the best of them. As our bus climbed higher and higher, encircling us deeper and deeper within the striking green mountains, I was surprised to see some people were actually bike riding up these steep inclines.





Sleeping on a tatami floor
We spent 2 nights at a Ryokan – Japanese traditional inn and even though I had pre-warned my husband about the simplicity of the accommodation (no beds, we sleep on futons and no chairs, we have cushions and a small low table) I think he was still a little surprised by the reality of it all. Although I am not too sure just how traditional this Ryokan was with a flat screen, HD TV in the corner of out room. It was a great experience for 2 nights but I'm not sure I could have stayed there much longer.
We had breakfast and dinner cooked for and served to us. Half the time I had no idea what I was eating. Occasionally I would ask, and a game a charades would entail as staff tried to mime the items which had no english translation. And I've never stayed at a hotel where it was acceptable - expected even - for guests to come to dinner in their dressing gowns (yukata).






Bearing all
Hakone is beautiful and I can see why so many Japanese holiday here. I courageously travelled by their cable cars and ropeways, ascending more than 1,400 metres above sea level (I’m not a fan of heights). But I think the bravest thing I did in my time here was to take a bath, stark naked, in front of total strangers! There’s an onsen (hot spring bath) at our Ryokan and the rules are simple. Undress, use the shower area to wash your body thoroughly then sit, totally in the nude in the onsen with other guest. Thankfully they are separated into male and female. Admittedly, it wan'ts as daunting as I thought it would be and none of the petite Japanese ladies even raised so much as an eyebrow and my... slightly larger Western frame. There was the option of using a private onsen, but you know the saying, when in Japan......
(Don't worry, I waited until the last person had left before I snapped these photos)

Monday 24 May 2010

My husband has a new love

Konnichiwa Tokyo
Jumped on a limousine bus from Narita airport directly to the hotel Conrad in Shiodome. Effortless. Did very little that evening as it was raining heavily and I didn’t want to venture too far. That said, the hotel is based above a massive underground complex so it is possible to shop, eat and jump onto the metro without ever going outside. Woke up early the next morning to visit the world renowned Tsukiji Fish Market. I didn’t get there at 5am as suggested to catch the tuna auctions – after all, I am on holiday! Got there slightly after 6.30am (thankfully it was within walking distance of the hotel). High speed motorized carts weaved their way in and out the stalls making deliveries. One needs to navigate this market with real caution as a collision with one of these things could prove perilous. But the most surprising thing about this market is the absence of a pungent fish smell. I’m told this is because the fish is so fresh it doesn’t stink... hmm, I wonder what that says about the fish we get in London?
After breakfast I was dragged ...ooppss, I mean, asked to escort my husband to the Sony Building – a technology showroom. I would love to report that the experience was better than I thought but unfortunately it was just as mundane and dull as I expected it to be. A few pioneering Sony products, including what looks like a flask holder that doubles as an iPod charger. Whoop pee.... However, for gadget lovers it’s worth a look in I guess. But every cloud has a silver lining and it just so happens that the Sony building is located in Ginza a mega shopping street. I say no more.
Tokyo Tower by night was again slightly disappointing. The tower itself looks good from the outside when it’s all lit up but I felt going up to the very top was a waste of my time and money; considering you can go to the 45th floor of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government building for free and have the same panoramic views across Tokyo. Still, one must do some of these tourist things whilst on holiday.
Sumo Match
The highlight of my trip so far though has got to be getting up close and personal with the sumo wrestlers at a live match at Kokugikan – The National Sumo Arena. I was badly mistaken about this sport. The glimpses I’d caught on TV always seemed like 2 overweight men hugging each other and moving around in a slow dance like manner. However, these giants move with such skill and you can even see the muscles defined in each leg. I was brave enough to ask one of them to take a photo with me – don’t ask me his name though as I have no clue of the pronunciation. Most bouts were over in mere seconds but the atmosphere remained electrifying throughout. Thanks to a little radio translator I hired, I was able to follow the proceedings and knew when to cheer.
My husband has fallen in love. Thankfully not with one of the many gorgeous Japanese women we happen upon in which ever direction we look, but with an everyday facility; the humble toilet. Or not so humble in the case of a Japanese high-tech toilet. The one in our hotel room comes with heated seated, an inbuilt bidet and butt shower, automatic deodoriser and get this, some even play music! It is amazing though that in the same public restroom you can find such a high tech toilet, next door to the rather more modest (and award to use) traditional Japanese style toilets - a rectangular contraption on the floor with a sort of raised hood. Tokyo is loud, fast and very expensive but it’s an amazing city. Oh, and during morning rush hour they are ‘women only’ cars on the subway – I guess to combat groping, which I understand is a major problem here.

Wednesday 19 May 2010

DMZ & Panmunjeom

Day 2
Boy oh boy did the heavens open up this morning – and stayed that way for the entire day. Didn’t know it was possible for so much rain to fall in one day. But at least it was warm.
DMZ & Panmunjeom
It was obscenely expensive and there was a bit too much waiting around but I would still recommend travellers to Seoul / South Korea take this tour. The morning tour to the DMZ started with a brief history of the Korean War and the current status on the North, South divide. Then came the first painstaking wait of the day – obtaining government clearance to enter the zone. Passed some lightly armed military men as we approached entrance to DMZ; nothing too scary. We were warned by the tour guide to stick close to her and we’d be safe from the 700,000 landmines that still lined the area. However, there was the reassurance that, in the unlikely event one did go off, we’d merely loose a leg but not our life. Okay then! The first real challenge of the day was the ascent out of the third tunnel. Getting down there was fine; the incline was incredibly steep but we were going downhill so not too strenuous. Walking, crouched low through the tunnel was fine; pity anyone over 5 ft 5 on this tour. But what goes down must come up and that’s when all the warnings against people with heart conditions etc. doing this part of the tour started to make sense. (As I write this blog the following day both of my butt cheeks are still in excruciating pain). The 2nd part of the tour – Panmunjeom took place in the afternoon. We penetrated the DMZ further, coming even closer to North Korea until we could finally look across with the hope of catching a glimpse of civilian North Koreans. You could feel the tension between the soldiers of the North and South as we entered the JSA – Joint Security Area. The sinking of the South Korean ship in March was just the latest casualty in a long line of hostilities between the neighbours. Camp Bonifas is the only military base I have ever stepped foot on. Security measures taken were beyond belief and we were warned that even our conversations were being recorded. A non smiling military man checked each passport thoroughly. Our shoes were checked (no slippers as you wouldn’t be able to run fast enough in case of an emergency evacuation), we had to transfer to a military bus (civilian buses not permitted on site). And despite the pouring rain umbrellas were not permitted as they posed a security threat. Yes, a mere umbrella could be used to mask a dangerous weapon. But it wasn’t all grim. Ladies will be pleased to know that they only selected the cuter soldiers to man these bases, so as not to frighten away tourists.

After a day of such intensity, a bit of retail therapy was in order. Lotte Departed Store did just fine. With floor after floor of brand names, it’s definitely worth a few hours of your time ladies. And then a gentle, romantic stroll along Cheonggyecheon Stream. It was so beautiful, peaceful and tranquil that it was hard to believe that the hustle and bustle of the city was just overhead. I ended the even with a seafood banquet in a traditional Korean restaurant.
Goodbye Seoul
Today I said goodbye to Seoul. Was again impressed by Incheon airport. There are a few Korean culture centres were you can learn Korean calligraphy, see a traditional show and even learn to make Korean items. I made a beautiful hair-band and tried my hand at an old traditional game. Couldn’t leave the country without a final taste of octopus - much to my detriment. Not because I was eating octopus, rice and some weird miniature egg like things at 9.30 am, but because it was so spicy that I was in physical pain by the 2nd mouthful. But, as I had paid good money for it I refused to be defeated and despite being unable to feel my mouth I finished every last morsel. Eating silk worms The one thing I didn’t have enough courage to try though was the silk worms. I saw them being cooked, I approached them, I was offered some, I pondered.... but alas refused. Hey, if I do everything on this holiday they’d be no reason to come back!

Monday 17 May 2010

Annyongaseyo!

Looks like we made it out in the nick of time – thank you Jesus! Planes at Heathrow were grounded again less than 12 hours after we departed. The 11 hour flight to Seoul was uneventful and I managed to sleep for a bit of it. While hubby chose the safe ‘western’ style meals, I dove straight in and ordered the Korean. My Bi-Bim-Bab came complete with mixing instructions and I felt a little chef like as I sat in my seat stirring and adding ingredients. Immigration and baggage reclaim was a smooth process and it’s easy to see why Incheon International Airport won ‘Best Airport Worldwide’ 3 years in a row.

Night one
Got to hotel, dropped bags and headed straight back out to find the Yoido Full Gospel Church – the largest gospel church in the world. They hold seven services in the Main Chapel on a Sunday and I was hoping to catch the end of the 7.30pm but didn’t. I did however catch one of the smaller services. I couldn’t understand a word of what they were singing, save for the occasional hallelujah, but the energy and enthusiasm as they jumped, skipped and waved their arms around was contagious. Admittedly, Seoul has one of the easiest and most efficient underground networks of any major city I’ve visited – not to mention it’s extremely clean, relatively cheap and everything is signposted in English so no problems getting around.

Day one
After breakfast, I felt sooo shattered that I had to go back to bed till about midday. A sign of aging. Ten years ago, I had no problem with the 12, 16 or even 24 hour flights. Nowadays anything over 8 hours eventually takes its toll; someone please bring back the Concord. Anyway, once I was finally able to rouse myself, we took a leisurely walk around Namdaemun Market and then headed to Namsangol Hanok Village. Five traditional Korean houses (hanok) were moved here to recreate the beauty of ancient times. A ceremony taking place with drew large crowds of locals but there was no English interpretation. To end the day, we visited the N Seoul Tower. At 237m, it didn’t compare in height to the 553m CN Tower I was forced to ascend in Toronto. Nonetheless the views were spectacular, despite it being a fairly cloudy day.
So that was day one. I couldn’t over do it as I am (ashamedly) jet lagged and I have a 7.40 am pick up tomorrow morning. On a jollier note, for those of you who have expressed concern, I’m pleased to report that the only dogs I’ve come across so far have been carried in their owner’s top pockets – I kid you not and will endeavour to collect photographic evidence.
For now, I’m off to bed. The real fun starts tomorrow with a DMZ & Panmunjeom tour – the demilitarized zone dividing North and South Korea. If I’m not killed in a hail of bullets (as per the disclaimer I’ll be made to sign) I’ll be back to share with you my thoughts on the world’s most heavily fortified border. Amongst them, whether or not at £90 per person (by far the most expensive day tour I’ve done on any holiday) it was worth it.